NoH2O
I usually do my valves after the car has set all night. I know this is the correct way to do them. What is the shortest time the car should sit if overnight wasn't an option. The garage I use does not belong to me and I can't leave my vehicle in it overnight anymore. The garage is only about 2-3 miles from my house and I know will get the engine warm but if I let it sit a couple of hours after I get there will I get an accurate valve reading? Thanks!
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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Marc
Pop the valvecovers off as soon as you get there and it should be cool enough to adjust them after 2 hours. (Dealers used to set up big fans to blast the engine in order to reduce the turnaround time on the job but IMO it's better to let it cool more naturally/evenly).
Most people can hang onto something (like the rocker arms) with their bare hands indefinitely if it's below ~140°F...that's actually cool enough to do the adjustment, but I'd wait about half an hour more.
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71SuperBee

What is a good place to go to learn how to adjust the valves????? I am a newbie and need to learn.. HELP.....

71 Super Beetle AKA:"THE BUG!!"
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Cobey
See the site I sent you a link to before. Or, buy the BugMe videos. Or, check out Rick right here is SB.com:

http://www.superbeetles.com/welcome.htm
[url=http://geeks-at-large.com/ghia](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
[url=http://geeks-at-large.com/edel/](O\U|U/O)[/url] 72 SB Vert Autostick - Edel
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NoH2O
Thanks Marc, I was hoping someone would say that. It sucks that I lost full run of this garage but am getting ready to build a pole barn to keep all my toys in. I just wasn't sure how cold, "cold" was. I thought a couple of hours would be alright just wanted to be sure. Compared to oil and air flow, what part do the valves play in an engine running hot. I noticed today the dipstick was pretty darn hot when I got back to the house. I just changed the oil last weekend, and everything is new, plugs,wires, cap,button, except adjusted valves. I didn't have time. Wouldn't they have to be pretty far out to cause that much difference in temp.?
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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Marc
I doubt that a valve lash problem is responsible. Check the obvious first (grope the fan to see if something's in there, check the t'stat linkage for binding if you have it, tighten the belt if it's slipping).
Check the timing (and dwell if you have points).
Does it act at all as though it's starving for fuel (i.e. stumbling at steady speed that goes away if you jiggle the pedal to squirt some extra gas in via the accelerator pump)? If you've got a piece of crud partially blocking a main jet and leaning the mixture that can cause hot running too.
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NoH2O
Here's the lowdown Marc. The guy I got it from built it 2 yrs. ago. In warm weather it diesels a little bit, or even in the cold if it has run long enough. He told me that before I bought it. He said it has done it since he built it. Too much compression he says. I told him the timing was probably out, but he swears he's checked and rechecked it. He comes from a long line of VW guys who build all their own stuff. I know that doesn't mean he knows what he's doing but I gave him the benefit of the doubt. He said it doesn't do it in the winter or if you run high octane fuel. I haven't been driving it a lot because of the weather. It's been up in the high 50's this week so I had it out running. Ran 92 in it yesterday. High octane burns hotter but would that mean hotter engine? I wouldn't think so. Still dieseled when I got home but there was still some 87 in her. Only thing I haven't done is check the timing. Runs strong with no hint of anything wrong. I am missing the rear tin though. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks Marc.
Brief run down of what it is:
1835cc
69X92
.044 heads
englew100 cam
volkstroker 3 crank
pertronix flamethrower coil
cb filter pump
lightened fly wheel/balanced with the crank
Progressive Weber
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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Ryan
What is the compression?  What jets are in that carb?  What is the timing set to? 
If it diesels less with premium fuel, then run it.  Octane has nothing to do with how hot the fuel burns, in simple terms it's fuels ability to resist detonation.  There is actually more BTUs in lower octane, but the power you get from added compression far offsets the energy loss of higher octane fuels.  --Ryan
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NoH2O
Hey Ryan, I'm glad you chimed in. I'm checking the compression tomorrow, along with timing. No idea what jets the Weber has . How can I identify them? It supposedly was tuned up 200 miles before I got it. I have put maybe 50 - 75 more on it. I say supposedly because the oil was black. Not gritty or anything just very dirty. I changed it last week. Also found the last set of plugs that were in it in a box of parts he gave me with the car. Numbers 3 and 4 were pretty black. 1 and 2 looked great. Could this be a sign of a tight valve? This will cause heat won't it? Number 3 gets bad first though in my experience with my busses. Picked up tune-up parts tonight after seeing the "200 mile" oil last week. One more question. Bosch or NGK plugs? NGK is what it has always had. I've ran Bosch in the past. Not real familiar with the NGK. I appreciate all your input. It definitely helps me. Thanks again!
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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Ryan

By compression, I mean compression ratio, not compression test.  --Ryan

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NoH2O
Is that something that can be measured or something the builder would know? Sorry, kind of out of the loop on things of this nature.
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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Ryan

Measuring it now would require pulling the heads.  You then measure deck height, and CC the head chambers.  Plug in some numbers to a calculation and voila.  Or you could just ask the builder.  Be very cautious of builders who don't check compression ratio during the building process.  It should be measured to a tenth of a point.  For example, the CR of my engine is 9.2.  If someone said 9-ish, I'd be worried.  In your case with an Engle w-100 cam and assuming a sea level altitude, I would keep it under 8.0 to be safe.  --Ryan

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NoH2O
I contacted the builder but haven't heard back yet. Meanwhile I did a comp. check and plugs wires etc.. Plugs were all evenly lightish tan. Looked barely used actually. Replaced them anyway. Cyl.1=115, Cyl.2=130, Cyl.3=120, Cyl,4=120 Do I have an issue with #1 and #2? Didn't check valves yet.
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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