GhostDuck
I've got a vacuum leak somewhere that's causing my bug to run rich.  I think it could be a vacuum hose.(I hope it's that simple)  I think it's my vacuum advance that is missing a hose.  I can't find where it should be connected to though.  Is it supposed to connect to the side of the carburetor?
Thanks for whatever help you have.
Duck
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Wayne
Hey,

I found this at another site, hope it helps:

Quote:

Over the years, many a 71-74 Beetle and 71 Bus with Dual Diaphragm Distributors have graced my doors and about half the time the vacuum lines are backwards. So here's the poop:

First, take a look at your Vacuum can. On the flat side of the can is a hose fitting - for the larger (4.5mm GREEN) hose. This is the RETARD side.

Second, on the cone (or rounded) side of the can is the smaller hose fitting. This uses a 3.5mm hose, usually black. This is the ADVANCE side.

Third, look at your 34PICT Carburetor. The fitting on the LEFT side of the carb is for the ADVANCE side of your Vaccum can. Connect appropriately.

Fourth, look at your 34PICT Carb again. On the rear (RIR) of the carb should be a fitting up towards, but not on the carburetor top. This push-on fitting is just slightly larger than then one on the side. This is for your RETARD side of your Vacuum can. Connect appropriately with the 4.5mm Green Hose.

Fifth, Any other fittings on your 34PICT Carb are for the infamous Throttle Positioner sometimes improperly called a "Decel Valve". The fitting for this jewel is an angled one right at the rear base of the carburetor. Connect the small vacuum hose to it to the Throttle Positioner Diaphragm Fitting. If your Throttle Positioner has two fittings (as original on 71 Buses, 71-74 Beetles), connect another length of 3.5mm vacuum hose from that to the Throttle Positioner Solenoid, usually located in the left side of the engine compartment. If you don't have the Throttle Positioner, cap off all the remaining fittings on your carburetor.

If you're running one of those new replacement H30/31PICT carbs, the procedure above is the same as they come with these fittings like their distant 34PICT cousins. Original 30PICT Series did not have the RETARD fitting, except for Beetle Auto-Suck Models - BUT - this fitting was for the Auto-Suck Solenoid, not the distributor because they were still single vacuum models (Actually, the Auto-Suck use a combined vacuum/mechanical distributor similar to the 76-78 Buses). Buses don't have these, right? So use this fitting for your RETARD side of the Dual Diaphragm Can.

Timing is usually 5 degrees AFTER Top Dead Center when using a Dual Diaphragm Distributor, give or take a degree or two - no two engine setups or running conditions are the same, so you''' have to fool with with of course. One other thing - Strobe Light at idle speed with the hoses CONNECTED. Sorry, no static timing with these, except to initially set the distributor at 0 TDC, start the engine, then strobiscopically time it after it warms up.

For those wanting to put a stock push-pull distributor back on their 71 Dual Port 1600 with a 34PICT (or other Bus with the same arrangement, here's the skinny on interchangeable distributors. All have the same Advance/Retard Curve specifications:

Vacuum: 2-5deg Adv @ 6.7 In. Hg, 11-13deg Ret @ 9.1 In. Hg
Centrifugal Advance: 6-12deg @ 1500rpm, 22-25deg @3800rpm

Distributors:

211-905-205Q * 0231 167 055 (Stock T2 '71)
211-905-205S * 0231 173 001 (Stock T2 '71)
Note: Originally equipped w/Speed Limiting Rotor, but can use a regular 04 033 Bosch Rotor)
113-905-205AH * 0231 167 053 (Beetle Auto-Suck 71-73)
043-905-205D * 0231 176 033 (Beetle Auto-Suck Calif. 1974)

  

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ljohn

Never could read instructions.........

LJohn
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Jerky_san

Dunno about a vac leak but I'd say if you still have your heater boxes you need to stick those hoses on from the blower shroud to the holes in the tin.. Since the heater boxes though you don't use them transfer heat from the heads to the heat inside.. Least thats what I've read..

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ljohn

No this was a picture to show where the vacuum hoses went just before I pulled the engine, which is sitting on my garage floor right now going to tear down and rebuild. But you are correct heater hoses are very important for many reasons.......... 

LJohn
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GhostDuck

Thanks for the info.  I'm going to post a picture tommorow of my engine and the hose/lack of hose that I have going on.

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GhostDuck
Well my SB is still not running well...  I've adjusted the valves and replaced the air filter- next I'm going to replace the distributor cap, spark plugs and spark wires. 
Here is the pictures of my hoseless apparatus(possibly an exhaust reburner).  I hooked it up to the carburetor and it didn't run any better.  I thought it might have even been running worse. 
Any ideas?
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GhostDuck
Lol!  So my SB got to be so bad that I had to stop driving it.  It would bog down at low RPMs; back fire; and sputter...  I changed the spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor...  It didn't run any better...  The next thing to replace on my list was the points.  I pulled out of my house to head over to my friends house across town and I could hardly get up to 5 mph...  It just choked and back fired and just plain sucked. 
I pulled over a Mere 100 feet down the road and was ready to give up... 
When along comes this dude with bright green hair and bright green tank top.  He says, "sounds like your points need to be adjusted.  Do you have a flat head screw driver and a book of matches?"
I had the flat head, but no matches and no idea what the matches were for.
He had his cousin go home, grab some matches and proceeded to save my butt!  Lol!
On the second try my sick car was cured!  I was blown away! 
I've since replaced my mechanical points with electronics now just need to figure out the timing.  It runs terrible at the spec TDC and BTDC.  I just timed it by ear and messed with it till it ran better.
Any ideas?  It's probably set at like 25 degrees BTDC.
GhostDuck
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flash

 Ok....So...what were the matches for???

Loren R. Knapp
In The Hot Sonoran Desert of Arizona - 73 Super Beetle "The Blues."
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ljohn
Guessing the matches were for one of two things one he wanted a smoke
or the match book was a old mechanic trick being the same thickness your point need to be set at........ tolerance range .016 to .020....
LJohn
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flash

 O I C !

Loren R. Knapp
In The Hot Sonoran Desert of Arizona - 73 Super Beetle "The Blues."
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Jerky_san

Alright.. I've been thinking alot on this since i had vac leaks horribly.. And one thing came to mind.. after i got a new engine built and such i still had a back fire.. Come to find out my distributor wasn't retarding back to normal after its advances through the RPM range.. so the spark would come to late .. something you can try and see if your vac advance is working.. Another thing is mine was leaking horribly at the end where the runners connect to the heads.. bare in mind this was an engine built by a company named GEX and personally i think their engines are crap.. just my opinion..

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68autobug
 
Yes that company has a bad name...
even in Australia... lol..
 
I know of a local who uses match boxes and things to set the points gap and spark pug gaps....
I think He's totally mad... lol..
luckily He doesn't own a VW....
 
but it IS impossible to guess the points gap so its better than nothing..
 
Once the points gap is Correct you need to adjust the timing...
 
cheers
 
Lee
 

68AutoBug - helping keep air cooled Volkswagens alive in Australia & around the World -

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