evenstar3019

hey guys,

I'm having the usual hesitation probs with my 009/34-3 pict carb, one solution im thinking of is an SVDA dizzy from air-cooled.net has any body tried one? do they make a difference? how about the genuine vw dizzys available from cip1.com? please help!

thanks

matt shipley
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GRIZDOG

I haven't used one, but I might be looking for one in the future.  I'd like to see the response to this question as well.

1972 Super Beetle
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71SuperBee
Hey there evenstar,
 
    I was told that the svda with the vaccum advance would help alot of things.. I am going to invest in one myself.. I have a pertronix ignitor.. And I was thinkin that if I had a vaccum advance that the hesitation would go away when starting off. I would invest in one they say they are worth it...
 
       Aaron
71 Super Beetle AKA:"THE BUG!!"
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GRIZDOG
Do you know anyone who has one? (not that I don't believe you)
1972 Super Beetle
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71SuperBee
Griz there are several people on here that hate the 09 dizzy. They say that it really helps takin off. If you check out http://www.cip1.com you will see a 99.99 dizzy with vaccum advance. The 009 Boch if the cheap way out.. They only cost like 59.99 I think.. There is one called bruck.. check them out..
 
 
      Aaron
71 Super Beetle AKA:"THE BUG!!"
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Marc
The 34PICT-3/009 "syndrome" is always blamed on the distributor when in fact the root of the problem is the diameter of the 1600DP intake manifold - too large to maintain good flow velocity at low- and mid-range RPM and therefore prone to fuel condensation when the throttle is cracked open. With adequate manifold preheat and a functional thermostatic aircleaner delivering warm air to the carb in cool weather, this carb/distributor combination should be completely tolerable. I've run them together in the Northwest climate for 30-odd years; the tuning can be a little sensitive but it's not impossible. No header now on the market will provide the same preheat flow as a stock muffler, so even with a clear heatriser and a good T.A.C. there can still be problems - if switching back to a stock muffler isn't an option, then switching back to a stock distributor (either SVDA or DVDA) should help but it's not a silver bullet - even with an SVDA a dualport is always on the verge of having flat-spot problems if the manifold and intake air aren't warm enough. The last carbureted bug engines sold in the US had dual preheat passages, and in Europe VW used a manifold with a larger preheat pipe (about 3/4" inside diameter) - obviously VW recognized by then that there was a problem with the earlier DP manifolds.
An SVDA will give you about 42½° total timing at high speed/light load when set to 7.5°BTDC initial, but the centrifugal portion isn't all in until 3800RPM - below that, the reason it yields more advance than an 009 (which is all in at ~2500 and shouldn't be set higher than 32° total) is that there's a ~10°-wide vacuum-advance component riding on top of the centrifugal advance curve.
My daily-driver is a stock `70 1600SP and I've done back-to-back testing with an SVDA and a German 009 - there's no discernible difference in drivability or mileage in this application, which tells me that the benefits attributed to the SVDA are (to put it politely) overrated. But for the engine it was designed for, a 1600DP, it's a good choice. Nothing wrong with a DVDA for that matter, assuming you can find one with a good vacuum canister (they're infamous for leaking on the retard side). If $100+ is more than you want to spend, look for a used distributor from a 1974 49-state bug. Either the 4-speed 0 231 170 034 or the AutoStick 0 231 170 036 should give good results. I've never used the counterfeit units like CIP1 sells so can't comment on them.
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71SuperBee
so Marc what you are saying is that if you have a aftermarket air cleaner go back to stock??? And the warm air going is is what mixes better??? So would you recommend me going back to the stock air cleaner because I still have it I just have to clean it up...
 
 
 
        Aaron
71 Super Beetle AKA:"THE BUG!!"
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evenstar3019

hi mark,


thanks for your reply, do you think it would help if i installed a 32/36 weber carb kit? im pretty sure these come with the manifolds, air cleaner and everything, so would this help? also, my bug is my daily driver so if anybody has used one of these carbs could you tell me if it makes much of a diffrence in the mpg? or recommend any other carbs for a stock engine? im currently running a bocar 34-3 and to be honest, i dont think its much good.

thanks,

matt
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Marc

The Weber (or Holley) progressive has a bunch of problems of its own, again attributable to an intake manifold that's just too damn big. There've been some attempts to improve that using a non-plenum design (helps driveability a little, loses top-end power) and one which incorporates a giant preheat system that runs up around the plenum: http://aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=FSK0028&cartid=0325200594136636

...personally, I'd put the money towards a decent set of duals instead (Weber 34ICTs are good, better'n Kadrons IMO especially on a small engine) - but if you're determined to run a proggy, this manifold is a must IMO. If you live in a year-round warm/dry climate you won't need it as much. Expect to spend some time fussing with a proggy before it runs right - usually it takes a pretty big accelerator pump shot to make them driveable, so the mileage you get will depend a lot on how you drive...keep it on the primary with a steady foot and it could be better than with a stock carb.

The Bocar 34PICT-3s have some quality control problems (show me a south-of-the-border part that doesn't) but the design is the same as a German Solex so they aren't hopeless. How bad is the mileage you're getting? Is it worse than 25MPG overall?


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Originally Posted by 71SuperBee
so Marc what you are saying is that if you have a aftermarket air cleaner go back to stock??? And the warm air going is is what mixes better??? So would you recommend me going back to the stock air cleaner...

Definitely. Make sure the warmair control system is working or it won't help, though.
Another thing about aftermarket aircleaners - A VW engine has a fuel standoff "fog" above the carb when you're tooling down the road; the jetting of the carb is selected taking that into consideration, and when you run a shortie aircleaner it's disrupted. You want a good 3" tall stack above the carb - the stock aircleaner has that built in.
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71SuperBee
Cool marc, i will for sure get that stock air cleaner and put it back on thanks again...
 
 
 aaron
71 Super Beetle AKA:"THE BUG!!"
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