organcory

I have a 1972 Super Beetle that after driving for a little while, the accelerator cable starts to stick, and I have to reach behind the pedal and manually pull back towards me - to keep it from revving.  Is there a good way to fix this?

Cory Organ
West Columbia, SC
1972 Super Beetle - "THE BUG"
1966 Ford Mustang
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aircooled299
Check to see if anything is hanging up when you step on the gas (like that's not the first thing you did). For a temporary fix you could rig a spring on the throttle arm to pull it back so you don't have to make a post in a few weeks looking for new hood, fenders, etc check the return spring on the carb. That and my roller pedal that was a little loose and flopped to the left putting the cable in a bind and not allowing it to return was what was wrong with mine years ago when I had the same problem.
-Patrick
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organcory

How would I go about mounting a spring on the arm?  Would I mount it to the roller also?  What did you finally do with yours?  Yeah it would be bad if I run into someone, trying to do this.

Cory Organ
West Columbia, SC
1972 Super Beetle - "THE BUG"
1966 Ford Mustang
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Marc
Check the metal tube that goes through the fan shroud - the one that looks like a soda-straw with one flared end. If it isn't all the way towards the front of the car and springs back at you when you push on it, there's the problem.
The only thing holding it in place is the friction of the rubber grommets on the carb side of the shroud and on the front tin over the bellhousing and the little D-shaped plastic goody on the firewall side of the shroud. There's a Bowden tube running between the cable conduit in the chassis and the soda-straw tube - it has a little preload sag in it to keep the effective length of the throttle cable constant when the engine/trans move in the mounts, and that has a tendency to push the soda-straw out of the shroud. If the Bowden tube then comes off of it, the cable is exposed and will start to slice its way into the side of the hole in the front sheetmetal - it'll catch in the slit this causes, and eventually the cable will fray & break here.
There are a couple of ways to secure the soda-straw tube so this can't happen. Personally I put a small hose clamp around it on the firewall side of the shroud...that's a bear to do with a dualport engine once it's in the car. An easy/sleazy way if you can weld or braze is to affix a tab to it at the carb end and use a sheetmetal screw or poprivet to secure that to the shroud.
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organcory

Is there a kit to get if none of this is present?  I am not sure if it is.  I havent had a chance to look.  I will try to look today.

Cory Organ
West Columbia, SC
1972 Super Beetle - "THE BUG"
1966 Ford Mustang
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Marc
No "kit" that I'm aware of but the soda-straw tube is available, as are the D-shaped plastic goodies (although they don't work as well as a flatwasher and a hoseclamp). The grommets can be generic hardware-store items. Haven't seen the Bowden tubes for sale anywhere but they shouldn't be hard to find at a wrecking yard...IIRC anything from mid`66-up should work. The car can be driven without the Bowden tube but there's a tendency for surging and clutch chatter on takeoff without it.
The soda-straw tube used through 10/65 had an extension on the carburetor end that was used for the cable-mounted early return spring. This tube will work on any pre`75 car too. In `75 the tube was made longer for the FI engines, that may be the only one being sold for `66-up anymore so you have to cut it down for a `66-`74 application.
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organcory
Marc,

Check this link:

http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.3092
Cory Organ
West Columbia, SC
1972 Super Beetle - "THE BUG"
1966 Ford Mustang
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