divot27

Has anyone ever heard of a motor seizing up when it still has plenty of oil in it????

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VSB74

Yep, it's usually caused by overheating such as from missing tins, etc.

Rog
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divot27

I only put about 50 miles on it. I heard a quiet "POP" and then a ton of smoke came out. The engine ran fine for the next 3 miles until I could get it off the interstate safely. Oil was coming out of the bottom between the oil drain and where it mates up to the tranny. The dip-stick showed about 1/2 quart low. I returned to the car an hour later and the engine was seized. It would not turn over with the starter or with a wrench on the pulley. And all the tin is there except for the one between the belt and hood.

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BugMan
If your missing the piece between the pulley and decklid, then you're getting alot of extra heat in the engine compartment.  In my opinion, that one is extremely important because it stops the hot air coming off the exhaust from getting into your engine compartment.  That may have been what caused your car to overheat.
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fatalifeaten
divot27 wrote:

I only put about 50 miles on it. I heard a quiet "POP" and then a ton of smoke came out. The engine ran fine for the next 3 miles until I could get it off the interstate safely. Oil was coming out of the bottom between the oil drain and where it mates up to the tranny. The dip-stick showed about 1/2 quart low. I returned to the car an hour later and the engine was seized. It would not turn over with the starter or with a wrench on the pulley. And all the tin is there except for the one between the belt and hood.



If I were a betting man, I'd say you spun the rear main and blew the rear main seal (the oil you were seeing was coming from the rear main seal and if you pull the engine you'll find a bunch in the bellhousing, and your clutch is probably toast.

If that's the case, you're done. Time to rebuild. Hopefully it didn't walk a lot and bash the saddle up to the point where you have to replace the case. You may be looking at an align bore and thrust cut though, have a machine shop that knows VW's check it out once you get it apart (if needed)

You mentioned you put 50 miles on it, was this a fresh rebuild or did you mean you've only owned it long enough to put 50 miles on it? If it's a rebuild, did you have it done or do it yourself? If you paid for someone to do it, go raise hell. If you did it yourself,  maybe you missed something?

Either way, you're going to have to pull it and see if it's truly locked up or if something else is going on.

Sorry
Daily Driven Dubz Phoenix AZ Family


'66 Deluxe
'63 Deluxe ragtop
'61 Deluxe
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divot27
I found out what happened.

The thermostat popped. This closed the cooling vanes in the dog house. (Yes, I still had those.) The engine over-heated. Two of the main bearing seized to the crank. The alignment holes are shot. So I need a new block, crank, bearings, clutch, main seal, associated hardware, and a beer.
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fatalifeaten
beers. Plural. Sorry man.
Daily Driven Dubz Phoenix AZ Family


'66 Deluxe
'63 Deluxe ragtop
'61 Deluxe
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olspeed
You had better be looking for another cause... VW designed the thermostat bellows and the cooling tin flaps so that they OPEN when the thermostat bellows fail. If you look at the bellows when it is cold, it is collapsed and under pressure trying to expand. But when it is heated it expands. When the bellows fails it automatically returns to the expanded state. So this is not the cause of your failure...But like fatalifeaten said
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 If I were a betting man, I'd say you spun the rear main and blew the rear main seal (the oil you were seeing was coming from the rear main seal and if you pull the engine you'll find a bunch in the bellhousing, and your clutch is probably toast.

If that's the case, you're done. Time to rebuild. Hopefully it didn't walk a lot and bash the saddle up to the point where you have to replace the case. You may be looking at an align bore and thrust cut though, have a machine shop that knows VW's check it out once you get it apart (if needed)

You mentioned you put 50 miles on it, was this a fresh rebuild or did you mean you've only owned it long enough to put 50 miles on it? If it's a rebuild, did you have it done or do it yourself? If you paid for someone to do it, go raise hell. If you did it yourself,  maybe you missed something?

My idea here is if it was a recent rebuild (no matter who built it) I would bet that the little pin the locks the bearing in the main saddle was left out. As the bearing gets seated in the case the only thing that keeps it from rotating is that pin...True it will be held in place by the crush of bolting the case halfs together, but this will only last for a short while...about 50 miles.
Olspeed   

66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
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