dods1600

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Thats the site I saw it on

 

I condensed this into a howto for my own needs
prep the car with 80,100, then 200, finished with a 400, & all your bodywork,
strip all chrome, bumpers, rubber, door handles, trim etc
-small rope under rubber to lift it so paint flows underneath
thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a
little thicker.
(try 4 parts paint 1 part thinner as your starting pt)
NEVER NEVER shake the paint bubbles will occur
paint at 10am,
wipe each pannel down with drying cloth soaked in mineral sprits prior to
foam rolling
paint a 2nd coat at 7pm
wet sand next morning at 8am
use a spray bottle with water & dish soap and keep the paper really wet,
use bucket of water with drying cloth to remove wet sanding residue,
repeat 3 times for total of 6 coats
use 600 grit after 2 coats, 800 grit after 4 coats, and 1000/1500 grit
after 6 coats depending on your elbow grease
use a high speed polisher, a buffing bonnet and 2 table spoons of the
turtle wax polishing
compound., run for 2-5 mins on a 3'x3' area, let machine weight be the guide

then wax to produce final finish

Hints
start with the hood, open it when done,
then the front fenders,
then the rear area around the window,
then the trunk lid and open it,
then the roof and rear quarters all in one shot,
then the doors last.

-line the roller tray with tin-foil toss the tin foil after each coat less
contamination for each coast

-load up the roller before hitting the pannel
-work a pannel at a time, roller in one hand foam brush in the other
-start rolling in the middle of the pannel and lighten your touch toward the
edge.
-work in a starburst pattern from the center to the edges,
crossing the star at intersecting angles to prevent hard lines from the
roller's edges.
-if bubbles appear (your pushing down to heavy) try to light roll with just
weight of roller
wait 2 mins they should settle out
-if you get orange peel effect paint it too thick
-use a foam brush to paint the jambs and tight spots
-u have 10 mins to work the paint once its rolled on surface
-if you wipe the last wet sanding with mineral sprits that will be the gloss
after polishing
-keep the buffing bonnet WET, have a spray bottle full of water and spray it on the bonnet each time
load up the polish paste, be very generous with both.

1600cc biggest most powerful engine for a stock beetle. Power house!:) Smokes the tires in first in the rain
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MDs8erDUDE
I saw the topic over on thesamba. I skimed through it and it seems like a good idea. I think it's the route i'll take on getting my bucket painted. Very good summary by the way.
Rob J

1970 in progress
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68autobug

Now if We can only find that brand of paint in Australia....

 

Sounds very much like POR 15.... but not sure what its mixed with...

 

but POR 15 does even out on the surface....

sets very hard etc.... has a great shine...

but its also very expensive here in Australia....

although not as expensive as having Your car painted... lol...

I have two Sons who use POR 10 on car chassis etc...

One is a spray painter who did spray paint a Beetle with POR 15...

thats what the owner wanted....

 

It does sound like a lot of hard work to Me....

but thats why car painters charge so much I guess....

 

Lee   68AutoBug    Australia

 

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

 

68AutoBug - helping keep air cooled Volkswagens alive in Australia & around the World -

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