pa_trick
I think I saw somewhere a comment about changing the oil cooler on an engine if you have found a lot of shavings and such in the bottom of the case.

I am not being a cheapskate, but if having the oil cooler cleaned by the mechanic at $10 will get all of the debris out of it, why would I want to spend $80 on a new one.

Thoughts and comments?

Patrick
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74 Super Sun Bug (the partner's)
71 Super Cal Looker (mine)
the "Shade tree mech" for both...
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NoH2O
I'd start with figuring out where the shavings are coming from. Unless you can pinpoint and fix that issue, you may be changing more than an oil cooler. How much debris are we talking?

Steve
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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pa_trick
The engine actually blew a rod, right into the side of the case. I have another case and a rebuild kit, but want to know if I should change to oil cooler too.
Patrick
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74 Super Sun Bug (the partner's)
71 Super Cal Looker (mine)
the "Shade tree mech" for both...
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NoH2O
Ahhhh, the old rod in the side of the case trick. I guess the call is essentially yours. I'd replace it if I had the slightest thought it was plugged or had crap in it. The oil is the bloodline of the engine, and in the end isn't another $70 worth the peace of mind knowing you have a good cooler protecting the $300-$400 you've already spent on a case and rebuild kit? If the guy at the garage is certain he can get it clean it may be worth a try. But, 6 of one, half dozen of another. I'd spend the money myself. It's better to know than to hope.

Steve
'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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olspeed
pa-trick first off you can't clean a VW oil cooler out good enough to be certain that you have all the particles out. They are not a tube and tank design like a automotive radiator. they are what is called a labyrinth design like what is used on most heavy equipment "Detroit Diesel.Deutz Diesel and some Caterpillar" to name a few. You can try to back flush it if you want to. To do it I would use a non-flammable solvent like Stoddard's solvent but in a pinch even gas (DON'T SMOKE!)would do. but no mater how hard you will try it just can't be cleaned to the point where it will not release particles in to the oil. When I was in the business back in the 90's a company out of W.Virginia called Posi-Clean had a service where they would soak the contaminated cooler in a acid solution that was guaranteed to remove Babbitt"bearing" material but it would not remove other metals.It was OK for old out of date coolers that were no longer manufactured or a used cooler that you didn't know the history of and could not find new anymore, but this is not the case with a VW cooler. If you wish I can give you the number to Posi-Clean as they are still in business,the company I used to manage still uses them to this day. But the price to clean a cooler about the size of a VW cooler would run in the $125.00 to $150.00 range not including shipping. And with the damage that you had in that engine it would still not remove everything and they would not guarantee it. My point is any mechanic that would tell you (with a straight face)that he could clean it for $10.00 and it would be fine, is one you want to run away from as he is only after your money and doesn't have your best interest at heart.
Olspeed 
66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
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pa_trick
To be fair to the mechanic he did not mention the oil cooler, he just gave a rough price for cleaning engine parts.

It sounds to me like I need to order a new oil cooler and at $70 it is a deal.

Patrick
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74 Super Sun Bug (the partner's)
71 Super Cal Looker (mine)
the "Shade tree mech" for both...
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