staticattic
I discovered my number 3 cylinder is not firing. I noticed when I look down the velocity stacks of the carbs, all of the throats are nice and shiny with the exception of number 3. The throat for number 3 has a film on it. I can spray carb cleaner down that throat and for a few minutes, the idle will smooth out. Just for grins and giggles, I swapped the number 4 spark plug with the number 3 plug to no avail. With the engine running, I can pull the number 3 wire off the distributor and it makes no difference. I know the distributor is firing because I accidentally got shocked by the exposed metal.  I have not swapped the wires to see if that is the problem, I will do that today. I am thinking the problem lies within the carb, as in something preventing fuel from getting to number 3, but that is only a rookie guess. Being that this is my only ride, I have no choice but to continue driving it. From what I have read, with only 3 cylinders firing, my engine is not heating evenly. Therefore, thermal expansion is what is causing damage. I need to get this fixed ASAP. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks. 
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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bumblebee73

what kind of carb setup do you have , if your running duel carbs, i know there can be flat spot durn idle on one carb , that has to do with vacume. i read about it some where but i can't remember.

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staticattic

I have dual 44 Webers. The film inside the number 3 throat is what bothers me. I can wipe it off with a rag in the velocity stack, but I can only reach down so far. I am trying to do all of the simple stuff before I pull the carb off and take it apart.

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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bumblebee73

i don't understand the film thing either, is it a black sutty film or a clearish film.

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bumblebee73

go to the chat room i'll be there.

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staticattic
I can't get any changes. I think the problem definitely lies within the carb. In order to check that, I have a plan and several back out plans. The obvious first plan would be to pull the carb, take it apart, clean it very well, and re-install it. If I do that, I am thinking I should probably do both. I think this could be a nice, weekend job.

For back out plans, I have a few options:

1) If I get them off and get in over my head, I can take them to the Bug shop and have them do it or I could spend the extra time to dink with them and figure it out myself and save the $65.00 an hour the shop charges. Either way, I would need a car to drive so I had a thought about putting the stock carb back on. A 1776 with dual 44's running on 3 cylinders, I would think, would perform about the same as a 1776 running on 4 cylinders with one stock carb.

2) I have a long block 1600 that I was planning on building for the '68 that I am restoring. I can pull my engine, take the top half off, install those items on the 1600, and drop the 1600 into my current driver.

My back out plans involve major surgery that I would prefer not to do unless I had to. If I had to choose a back out plan, I would prefer number 1. For the stock carb, I have the 34-PICT 3. How well would that function on a 1776 with a mild cam? I am just looking for something to get me back and forth to work, not run on the NASCAR circuit. Plus, it would only be a "patch" while I was getting my 44's fixed. Thoughts?  
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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staticattic

I have been reading about this symptom and some other things I had read I need to check are for burnt valves or gunk in the manifold. I just had my valves adjusted last Friday and according to the shop, all of my valves were on the loose side, none were tight. It was them that pointed out that my carb was not functioning correctly. I have never personally seen a burnt valve, but I would assume if the valves were getting adjusted, the adjuster would be able to tell if the valve was burnt or not. Just looking at them, they all look normal. Can a person visually check a valve and see if it is burnt? 

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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staticattic
well, i fixed it and it wasn't near as hard as i thought it was going to be. i bought "Bob Tomlinson's Original Weber Tech Manual"( http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Weber_Tech_Book_Bob_Tomlinson_p/cb103.htm ), pulled the carb off, took it apart, and cleaned and adjusted every single piece. want to have a guess at what it was? (pause while the music from Jeopardy plays...)

some knucklehead, i am assuming at the shop where i always take it to tune my carbs, torqued the hell out of the mixture screw. when i took out the mixture screw for throat number 3, the needle was stuck through the jet to the point that the jet backed out with the needle. it took forever to get those two separated. i eventually got them apart, totally soaked everything with carb cleaner, put everything back together, and tuned everything per the book. it runs better now than it ever has before. makes me wonder exactly what those jokers at the shop were charging me for. the biggest thing has been about fuel economy and popping. the shop has always said, "you have big carbs and a performance engine. you can't have fuel economy and high performance. as far as the popping, that is just from any unburned gas that is getting dumped down your cylinders. if you lean it out anymore, your engine will not run right." since they were the "pros", i always just took their word. guess the joke was on me. when i think of all that money i paid them, all that money i spent on gas, all the soot in my driveway from my exhaust, all my sooty plugs, etc. i can't help but thinking of going back to the shop and cracking some necks.

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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