Red
hi all,
my name is Tony and i have recently bought a '73 super beetle from a police impound auction. it came without a carb, so i went and got a reman'd one from checker auto. my first question is does anyone have a vacuum diagram for a solex 34 pict-3? there are 2 vac ports on the front and 1 on the side and i have no idea where they are supposed to go. 

thanks in advance
Tony 
1973 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0
Jerky_san

There are 2 vac ports for a dual vac advance distributor.. What color is the cap on the distributor and also does it have a little canister on the side? If it doesn't then its a thing called a 009.. You will just have to plug the carb vac lines.. What i generally do is take a piece of vac line and put a screw/rivit/something in the end of the vac line hose and just slide it onto the little pieces.. Generally though when you buy one they come with little rubber caps on all of them and you just take the ones off you need.

Quote 0 0
Jerky_san
Also I guess I should say.. If you do happen to have a dual vac canister. The one on the left goes on the back port of the canister and the one on the front that comes straight out of the carb goes into the front port of the canister. If i remember right.. I'll tell you tommorow morning if I'm wrong..

Found this if you do have a dual vac canister

Note: If the distributor on your car is a double-vacuum advance type, there should be two vacuum hoses from it to the carburetor. The advance vacuum hose comes from the left side of the carburetor right below the stepped cam. It connects to the rear (rear of the car) port on the silver vacuum chamber on the side of the distributor. The retard vacuum hose comes from the rear port on the carburetor, just to the right of the throttle lever. It connects to the port on the front and bottom of the vacuum chamber on the distributor. It is essential that these vacuum hoses be hooked up correctly; the car will run VERY poorly (if at all) if they are reversed.

http://www.vw-resource.com/

good website

http://www.aircooled.net/

He has little tech articles

This site has tech articles

http://www.superbeetles.com/performance101/performance101.htm

Also one other thing you might have a single vac canister.. for that if i'm remembering correctly you plug it straight into the front.. of the carb from the canister.. Timings for a dual vac are 5 degrees after ATDC

http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html also nice to look at if your wanting to do carb adjusting/timing/valve adjustments..

And since you have 2 vac ports on the front it sounds like its a carb that could work with an autostick so make sure you get the one that points DIRECTLY forward instead of the one thats angled upwards. Also if you've never owned a VW remember oil and its cooling system is the life blood of the engine. ^_^; keep your oil changed

Quote 0 0
Red
thank you for that info, my dist. dosent have the vac. advance canister on the side, and now that i think of it i remember seeing 009 stampted on the side of the distrubter. yes this is my first vw so i'm still learning a lot about it and i'll definantly change the oil soon. thanks for your help

Tony


1973 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0
Red

i have another question too. when i am coming to a stop, no matter how long the engine's been running, it dies. the enginge just sputters to a stop. if i hit the throttle it'll stay running. thye idle cutoff solenoid is brand new and getting 12 volts. i put in an electric fuel pump cause i thought that maybe the mechanical one wasnt pushing enough fuel up to the carb, but it still does it. any ideas? again, thanks in advance for any help

1973 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0
Jerky_san

well actually the electric can put to much gas if you don't have a thing that lowers the pressure.. But anyway.. Look on your intake and you'll see little vac things like that are your carb on your intake. Insure these are ALL plugged. Generally if it dies its caused by an air leak. Make sure your timing as well..

Quote 0 0
BugMan

Timing, or carb may need to be adjusted a little

Quote 0 0
Red
the port on the side of the intake was open, so i'll plug it up and see what happens. i think i have the timing at 7.5 after tdc. should it be at 5* before tdc? in the manual it had 2 different settings. thanks for your help guys, i really appreciate it and i love your website here!

Tony
1973 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0
Jerky_san

the before is whatca need if i remember right. You can do a thing called static timing which is where you compare the TDC on the pulley to the engine and marks in the distributor. But using the timing light is great to.. Vac leaks will cause your bug run like crap so if you still have problems and it resist tunning as seen in the last link on my 2nd post. Then you need to take some WD 40 and spray where the intake connects together.. Usually around the carb mount. the little red boots leak to but can usually be fixed by just tightening the little couplings a little..

Quote 0 0
Red
the red intake boots are showing signs of leaking so i got some replacement ones but i'll try tightening them up first. i plugged the 2 vac lines on carb and the one on the intake. i'll try the boots tomorrow then take it for a drive to see how it does. i also need to adjust the valves. from what i can figure out this car has been sitting for nearly 10 years lol. thanks for your help
1973 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0
Jerky_san

hehe thats one thing about a volkswagon.. The old ones are built like tanks.. and they are like giant toys so you can easily work on them Also remember that the motor generally takes around a minute or two to warm.. So don't expect super performace until the intake warms are able to keep the intake nice and hot..

Quote 0 0