gdabbs

Has anyone ever used Lucas Oil conditioner,does it gum up your engine or does it help.Just wondering.

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theredbarn

I've never kept oil in the case long enough to make any conditioners matter. The AC VW engine is wicked hard on oil so the best advice is simply use a good oil and change it often.

74 Super, 1776, front and rear suspension improvements with Topline goodies
Mod at Superbeetlesonly.com
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gdabbs

I change oil often and use castrol HD 30.Just wondering if using lucas would be a good investment in protecting my engine. 

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MY72BUG
I hear the distinct sound of a can of worms being opened.  My two cents worth, and these are only two Canadian cents, save your money.  Engines last longer and perform better when you:
1. use a top quality oil of the type recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
2. change it ( and the filtre if there is one ) every 3000 miles ( 5000 km. ) or more frequently if the car operates under severe demand conditions - and do the changes yourself.  This is simple work and no garage will do it with the same care that you will.
Oil conditioners have the potential for causing real grief.  The "motor honey" products like STP will restrict oil return passages causing oil leakage from the valve covers.  I witnessed first hand a friend's Olds 425 V-8 written off through the use of STP.  Caveat emptor.

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kafertoys

If you want to do something special for your engine to let it know you care next oil change use Castrol diesel oil. run it till it looks real black on your stick then change to what you normally use.   This will clean your engine.

saving as many as I can
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olspeed
I know it's a book but here it goes
My72Bug's two cents are actually worth a lot. My experience with oils comes from working with Detroit Diesel engines starting back in the early seventies. DDA (Detroit Diesel Allison) would run extensive tests on brand name oils about every five years and issue recommendations on what to use in their engines. Also remember at this time they were owned by GM so the tests reflected results for gasoline engines also. Roger Penske also continued these tests until he sold to Daimler in the ninety's. Anyway all of the tests have always showed that straight weight oils took more exposure to heat better than multi-vis oils, and that even after they started to break down from heat the lubricating capabilities of straight weight oils was better than that of multi-vis oils. The reason was that multi-vis oils start off with a poorer grade of straight weight base oil. Like say 10w40 oil would be straight 10w oil but the additives give it the lubrication qualities of 40w. these additives burn out somewhere around 325 to 350 degrees Fahrenheit leaving you with the base oil and ash deposits from the additives. One thing to remember on air cooled engines and how this all applies to VWs is that oil does over 65% of the cooling in an air cooled engine. The oil soaks up the heat from the parts of the engine and removes it to areas where it can get rid of it, like the valve covers,the sump and the oil cooler. The tests that they did on synthetic oils showed that they had the same problems as additives.synthetic oils rejected the heat instead of soaking it up and didn't carry it away(this has been changed in synthetics now) And additives coating the parts which kept the oil from soaking the heat from them, which makes the engine run hotter and burns the oil out quicker. What I learned from all of this was that in the summer I always have run straight 30w oil and changed it at the 3000 mile mark. In the winter I would go to 10w40 multi-vis and change it sooner. I have never had an engine failure caused by an oil problem.
Olspeed

66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
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bumblebee73
the 1641 in my rail sees only 30w castrol in the summer and 10w30 castrol in the winter. and not a problem yet


http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/my67truck/my%201641cc%20vw%20rail/

[URL=http://www.mybannermaker.com/link.php?nurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mybannermaker.com][/URL]
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gdabbs

Thanks for all the good info.I just bought this car about a month ago and it has just had a top end overhaul.And it runs like a champ.I Really want to keep that way as long as I can.This is my second beetle,The first one I had was great but I was young and dumb and full of ...,well you get the picture.And I always see these adds about Lucas Oil and how it can protect your engine and slow leaks.Plus if they use it in Race cars I thought it would be great.I have heard bad stories about S.T.P.Never heard of using diesel oil though,that is probably worth a try.

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bumblebee73
in the 1641 i had before this one , i bought it used with unknown milage , i ran 15w40 mobil delvac in it for 2 1/2 years before i ran into problems.
http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/my67truck/my%201641cc%20vw%20rail/

[URL=http://www.mybannermaker.com/link.php?nurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mybannermaker.com][/URL]
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olspeed
If you run Diesel oil make sure it is Delo400 (diesel engine lube oil 400) as it has most of the same ratings as and automotive engine oil, the only difference is it is rated for more severe service. If you do use diesel engine oil be careful as older Caterpillar engines needed a oil with more sulfur in it for their fuel systems and if you use it in your Bug you WILL have a premature engine failure.
Olspeed
66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
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theredbarn
I've owned my 74 for 20 years now. Most of that time I used Castrol racing 30w.that stuff is  harder to come by these days and so I've moved on to Castrol gts 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. I had lots of miles (200k +) on my old engine with only a top end rebuild at about 125k. When I remaned it into a 1776, I used the same case and only had to align bore it .020 and the bearings were worn- but reasonable.

Change the oil every 3k miles. If you do it shouldn't matter too much what type of oil you use.
74 Super, 1776, front and rear suspension improvements with Topline goodies
Mod at Superbeetlesonly.com
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68autobug
 
I don't use additives in My engines but always do in My gearboxes...  even late model cars...
 
I use Castrol 15w/50 oil all year round..   GTX 2 CASTROL
 
its the oil recommended by Castrol in Australia..
 
its not a cheap oil - and i renew it frequently.. 2000kms.. or even less if the oil looks dirty..
 
All multi Oils in Australia have detergents in them nowadays.
so there are many oils that can be used in Diesel and Gasoline engines...
 
make sure you take the sump plate off and clean the gauze strainer etc and I always wipe a rag inside the engine and the tappet covers... get all these cleaned.. and the oil stays clean for a longer period..
 
cheers
 
LEE
 
PS: choose a good oil and stick to it.. Your engine will love you for it...
 

 
 
68AutoBug - helping keep air cooled Volkswagens alive in Australia & around the World -

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