I am in the process of installing full floor pans on both sides.I'd like to say this from the outset: if you plan to do it yourself, you will need many tools just to get the old pans cutout. I've had to use a small cutting tool that uses a 3" cutting disk, an air chisel and a die grinder! This, in addition tools such as a hammer, hand held chisel etc.

The pan is bolted up on the outboard side (door side) and spot welded about every inch and a half on the inboard side plus each end. Unbolting was the easy part, until you get to each end (bolted side).I used the air chisel to go through the spot welds and the die grinder to smooth them down.

My next phase will be to install the pans. A word about the pans. They were ordered from a well known supplier and I knew they weren't German made by the price. They were made in Brazil and I don't think they have quality control in their catagory. This is a 74 I'm restoring so it has the seats that only has two rear legs. needless to say, I had to cut the front brackets off of the old pan and mig weld then onto the new.(the new ones were Mickey-Mouse in quality).

It will be a while before I get around to installing the new ones .
if any one on here every installed full pans (body still on chssis) please let me know. I can use any help!!
Robert Mc anally
Quote 0 0

I need to pull mine as well and the area behind the back seat. I was thinking of at least pulling them out myself, but I have no welding skills so I was going to find someone to do the welding part for me. After reading your post, it looks like getting them out is going to be a weekend job. One thing I had been toying with, was the idea of using Diamond Plate sheets instead of regular pans. I saw them on a rail and thought it would look cool in a bug.

72 Super Beetle
Quote 0 0

I feel some of your pain i am also doing a body on floor board replacement mine has been replaced several times i would say by the rivets .. new to vw world ...have you tryed to remove driver side brake line a pain havent decided how best to put back in without much pain you have any ideals

Quote 0 0
I'm not doing any right now but will see if I can help, 1st try to wear gloves, aftermarket floor pans are called finger cutters for a reason.

I find cutting 4 to 5cm's from the edge of the tunnel with a sawz all on the old pan then hammering the edge up make it easy to chisel the old pan out.

Don't use the rear triangle piece of the new floorpan. you will need to do a little cutting to remove it but the original is much stronger and keeping it makes the job much better.

I have a sheet metal hole punch tool but you should drill holes along the inner edge ever 2 to 3cm's for welding ti the tunnel ledge.

You will need to bend up the front edge to get it in, I put a floor jack with a piece of wood under so I can hammer the edge back down flat after its in.
make sure to loosen or remove to 2 front 17mm bolts holding the body to chassis.

I have done this dozens of times so any questions just ask
saving as many as I can
Quote 0 0