xtremeblvr

I am trying to change out a bad wheel cylinder on my 72 Super and can't get the axle nut off.  I have tried a breaker bar (with pipe even after just the breaker bar wouldn't work, which ended in breaking the breaker bar), liquid wrench, and an air wrench, all with no luck.  Can't really take it anywhere since I don't have brakes.  Any suggestions??

Quote 0 0
Jerky_san

lol.. This bring back memories.. We had an old karman and something that happened to you.. What we ended up doing was getting my mom to sit on the bumper of the car while my sister pushed the brake inside the car with the trans in gear, e brake on and the tires were on both sides of the axle. We then proceeded to put a ratchet and socket on it with a 5 foot cheater bar. (remember to wear your safety glasses).. We then proceeded to stand on it and at the same time we jumped up and down on the edge of the cheater bar. We broke the ratchet, the socket, and the nut loose.. hehe Basically 330 pounds of weight on a 5foot cheater bar is far greater then the power of any air wrench.. That was our experience with those pesky little nuts..

Quote 0 0
ryen74
I had the same problem with mine. I had a wrench on both nuts with 6' pipes on each wrench. It still didn't budge. I ended up taking ab angle grinder to one side of each nut and slowly took off one of the flats almost to the threads. This allowed the metal to expand enough to move without messing up the threads. Then I bought some new nuts and made sure they were lubed and finger tightened for future removal.
Ryen
"Arizona dreamin'"
Quote 0 0
NoH2O

I've got a 6'-7' piece of fence post I've used in the past. I put it over my breaker bar and angled them at about a 30 deg. angle and leaned all my body weight on it. That's right at 200lbs. Seemed easier than trying to stand on it. Try heat and PB BLaster. Worst case, take a grinder to it, but be very careful not to get into the threads. If you can get it thin enough without going all the way through, it should allow it to come loose, or break on it's own. Exactly what ryen74 said. Make sure to get them on tight though when replacing them. 217ft. lbs.

'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
Quote 0 0
bumblebee73
i learned the hard way , i broke 2 breaker bars  once trying to get the ones off on my old super, so now i use an air impact gun at my work. that works great. can you go to a nearby shop and have them crack them loose for you and put the cotter pin back in to get home?
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1045
buddy had one once ,(until he lost it ) worked ok put a big breaker bar on it and while applying tension ,hit the tool with a BFH (big "F"ing hammer)
http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/my67truck/my%201641cc%20vw%20rail/

[URL=http://www.mybannermaker.com/link.php?nurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mybannermaker.com][/URL]
Quote 0 0
Ryan
First off, it NEEDS to be a 3/4" drive socket.  Almost all 1/2" drive tangs are designed to shear off between 200 and 250 Ft*lbs to prevent tool damage.  I use a 3/4" bar with a 4' cheater.  I weigh 210 lbs and hang on the end.  Always align the tool so your putting force directly downwards, this will add your weight to the wheel, making it grab the ground and less likely to spin.  Air guns are not very nice to the gears in your tranny so make sure you brakes are on HARD.  --Ryan

Quote 0 0
fatalifeaten
I've had good luck with the beater tool and a 5 lb sledge. I know you guys probably cringe at me saying that, but it works
Daily Driven Dubz Phoenix AZ Family


'66 Deluxe
'63 Deluxe ragtop
'61 Deluxe
Quote 0 0
BluegrassBug
It's a little pricey, but this tool makes the job a breeze:

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=TZE0064&cartid=

With it, you may even be able to take the axle nut off with a 3/8" ratchet (although that might be pushing it).

-BB




Quote 0 0
68autobug
 
Mine were very hard to get off also..
broke My Sons good quality breaker bar..
He wasn't pleased...
 
so He gave me a 3/4" breaker and socket and it came off with 6 foot of pipe on the end...  and Me jumping on it.... lol...
 
A local VW owner who has always had air cooled VWs..
tried once - not to do up the NUT with 217 ft lbs..
but they kept coming loose...
 
and i agree with Ryen, when doing these things, its best Not to have Your car in Gear....
and if all else fails... cut the nut off with an angle grinder...
I always use never seize on the thread...
so the Nut will never seize up...
as they can get rusted on...
 
cheers
 
Lee
 
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

 
68AutoBug - helping keep air cooled Volkswagens alive in Australia & around the World -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
-
Quote 0 0
xtremeblvr

Thanks for all the advise.  I haven't had a chance to mess with it again yet.  Hope to be able to this weekend.  I'm going to go get a 3/4 breaker bar and try that.  Sure am ready to have her up and going again.  Thanks again.

Quote 0 0
MY72BUG
When all else fails and you want to do maximum damage to the nut and none to the threads on the axel shaft, go at the nut with a high speed wheel on a Dremel tool.  You will go through a few wheels as they wear down.  Once you have a nice deep groove cut into the nut, heat it and put a good cold chisel in there and give it a good healthy whack.  This should put paid to the problem.  Dan (MY72BUG)
Quote 0 0
xtremeblvr

I finally got the axle nut off.  I took bumblebee's advice and bought the tool and a really big hammer did the trick.  Thanks all!

Quote 0 0
bumblebee73
glad to hear that it worked, good job

http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/my67truck/my%201641cc%20vw%20rail/

[URL=http://www.mybannermaker.com/link.php?nurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mybannermaker.com][/URL]
Quote 0 0