Precise1

 Hello all, it's been a while... I'm sort of back now that north Ca has dried up and I can "finish" the bug. Was working on a 95 Pathfinder last fall and was almost done, then promptly ran it into a concrete barrier and enjoyed 4 months of grief (it's not right yet!). Anyway, that aside, knowing that my (bug) front end was terrible, I called Top Line, and ordered, well, everything for $900... That includes a front disk conversion and lowering struts, etc... Everything ordered looks complete and nice; I'll set up the new strut assemblies tonight.

 Stripped the car down to the rack steering today, but how in the world do you get the ball joints to seperate from the spindle piece? I loosened the pinch bolt, soaked with PB Blaster, and wacked away with a picklefork. Got it to move about 1/8" but no farther and didn't want to damage anything. No ball joint puller available at the stores...

 I have heard polyurethane bushings squeak if not greased. What is your experience ? I'm assuming a little bit of white lithium grease is the way to go ?

 Does anyone have Brembo rotors ? These have a protruding ring around the center piece that the dust cap mounts to. The rims fit, but it interferes with mounting the centercaps. I'm thinking of turning them down almost flush; they aren't structural, what function do they serve ?

 Any input would be great. I'm sure I'll have a few additional questions...  I've taken a few pictures so if there is a call for a write up of completely rebuilding a strut/rack & pinion front end, I could provide one.

 Thanks all, and hope you have been well...

 

B

 

Measure twice; Cut once....
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Cobey
Not much help, but maybe.  I was trying to remove a steering rack from the tie rod today and ran into the same problem as you - it moved but only to the point where the pickle fork would all the way in.  In the end, I grabbed a stout and flat bit of metal (Ghia bumper bracket) which I wedge into the space and then added the pickle fork.  2 strokes, done.    So, what I am trying to say is, you may be abel to just add some "C" washers or the close to the gap so the pickle fork can continue to seperate them.
[url=http://geeks-at-large.com/ghia](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
[url=http://geeks-at-large.com/edel/](O\U|U/O)[/url] 72 SB Vert Autostick - Edel
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Precise1

 Thanks Cobey, but that wasn't the problem... I never removed the pinch clamp bolt and the ball joint stem is undercut for the bolt to fit. I realized this a few days later. Wasted a little time and buggered up a bolt, but once I removed it, the b-joint seperated easily...  

 I just need to think before I hammer...

 

Bernard

Measure twice; Cut once....
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aircooled299
Hey Bernard, I have used the urethane bushings before and had no squeaking problems. As far as lithium grease is concerned, the bushings  I bought had grease included but I don't know what kind it was. If you're like me you tore open  your kit already but if not you might check to see if there is a small packet of grease inside.
-Patrick
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Precise1

 OK, finally got everything back together... I kept cleaning/painting/etc old parts and couldn't stop; the results are pretty good though. I highly recommend Permatex Rust Treatment, simple to use and great results.

 My first attempt with the Top Line adjust-a-strut and Sport+ springs put the fender about 1/2 above the front tire... Way to low so I raised them up 1" today, and thinking about going .5" higher tomorrow.

 All fit and function seems very good, other than the calipers rubbing by less than .05" (they are about .2" beyond the face of the rotor face) on the back of the rims. I'm going to space them back about .04" using machined washers and mill a .04" groove around the inside of the rims; that'll cure it... From there it's redo the rear drum brakes, bleed, have it aligned and it is back on the road, better than ever.  

 

Bernard

Measure twice; Cut once....
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