staticattic
I recently removed my 1776 with dual 44's and replaced it with a mostly stock 1600. I want to put the 1776 in the Baja that I am building, so that's the reason for the swap. The 1600 needed to have the most of the top end rebuilt, so the 1776 graciously donated its fuel pump, exhaust, alternator, cooling tins, Pertronix coil and distributor, etc. After sitting on a cart in my garage for over 2 years, remarkably it fired right up. Other than the coil and distributor, the other non-stock items are the air cleaner, an 1 5/8" merged header with an unbaffled stinger, and a heavier cam. The cam was in the engine originally so I have no idea the specs on it. The engine runs fine, but I can definitely feel the missing horsepower when compared to the 1776.  I do have a couple of questions though.

The carb is a 34 PICT 3. I have noticed after driving around for a bit, condensation forms on the sides of the carb. Is that an early indication of icing? The preheater tubes were cut off by the previous owner. But, since I have a merged exhaust system, I would have no where to connect them anyway. Do I need to stress about it?

Today I dropped my car off at the local Bug shop to have some major rear end work done. Since they had it, I asked them to give the engine a quick once over just to double check my work. Good thing because the timing was too far advanced.  The bottom of the paperwork they gave me says, "The timing was set with 50 degrees advance and locked. Reset timing to 30 degrees advance and it is still locked." My Pertronix distributor is locked to 30 degrees advance as compared to changing with the higher revs. It wasn't anything I did, so either it was built like that or the springs have rusted or jammed. Again, is this something I need to stress about? It runs, idles, cruises, and accelerates just fine. I just want to make sure I am not slowly destroying the engine.


Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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bumblebee73
the 3 years that i drove my 73 super with the 1600 & the 34pic3 i never used the pre heaters, but what i did do was run the stock oil bath air cleaner in the winter.my first winter i had a corme air cleaner on it and she iced over once, i put on the oil bath one and never had a problem after that. bur your dizzy i don't have any knowlage with them.
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staticattic

IRT the distributor, I noticed something today. If I am driving along smoothly, I have absolutely no issues. On the other hand, if I stand on it and wind it out, it hesitates between gears. I am thinking this is a result of having hard coded timing advance. I am also thinking if the advance is hard coded because of a mechanical problem, such as a stuck spring, if the mechanical problem ever works its way out, I am going to be in a world of hurt because my timing is going to be way off. Luckily for me, the Air Force base has a fully stocked auto hobby shop that I can utilize. Tomorrow I am going to get in there and take apart my distributor to see what the deal is. Hopefully it is something I can fix and not have to buy something new. If I can fix it and re-shoot it with a timing light, everything should be right with the world again.  

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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staticattic
the timing is now dead on. the only problem, now that the timing is fixed, the idle is all screwed up. I can't get it to idle to save my life. I have followed the instructions perfectly and still nothing. it was idling before the timing issue was resolved.With a stock 34 PICT 3, I can turn the volume screw in or out and it makes no difference. what bothers me, it was idling just fine when I was having timing issues. Any ideas? I started with the volume screw turned out 2 1/2 turns and the bypass screw out 3 turns. The only thing I can really get the volume screw to do is kill the engine if I turn it all the way in. I did have it idling once, but I could not get it idling any faster than 650 rpm's. When I tried to speed it up, I ended up killing it and I never could get it to do it again. Right now I am driving with no idle and I pretty much have to floor it and work the clutch just to launch from a dead stop. What am I missing?
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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Ryan
You're fighting the cam.  Since you don't know anything about it other than it's bigger than stock, I can't say how much it's affecting you though.  You don't have a strong enough vacuum signal for a stock carb.  People have done this plenty of times, but the problem everyone has is that they have to maintain a high idle.  --Ryan
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staticattic
thanks for the reply. I hate to play dumb though, but can you explain that? I don't really understand. since the previous owner stuck a heavier cam in it, are you saying i need a sportier carb? sadly, the only way I know to get the specs on the cam is to totally tear apart the engine. the guy I bought it from lives in another state, and I have no idea what his name was so contacting him is not an option.

when you say vaccum signal, I am assuming you are referring to the vaccum that sucks the gas and air mixture through the manifolds. with a heavier cam, the valve open and close times have changed, so if the intake duration has been kicked up a bit, with stock manifolds, does that mean the turbulance the engine is wanting as compared to the turbulance the stock carb is making are not compatible?

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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staticattic

I bought some STP Carb Cleaner yesterday and cleaned the carb. It did have a little build up in the throat. Didn't really change much, but it did seem to launch a lot smoother. When I got home, I also took the open stinger off and put on a muffler. Since I have to give it a lot of gas just to keep it alive while launching, the stinger was really getting on my nerves. Basically I was making a bunch of noise like I was winding up to do something big, only instead I just putter along. This morning while driving to work, I noticed it is now idling, although very slowly. Not fast enough to keep the engine cool at a red light, but fast enough that it's not stumbling badly. It still stumbles at idle and between gear changes. Coincidence or is the muffler better for it? The carb is still not adjusted properly. I am thinking since I have to hold down the gas a bit just to keep it alive and even more to launch, it is not getting enough fuel. I am guessing the air mixture is too high. I should also mention that it has been raining pretty heavily for the last two days. I have been going out when there is a break in the rain and working on it. Don't know if that comes into play or not. Anytime I have taken my air cleaner off, I made sure everything was dry.

Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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YELLRHD
are you running a vacum advance distributor or strictly mechanical advance?

If you are running a vacum advance distributor make shure the advance mechanism is working and that you have it hooked up to the correct vacum port on the carb.

Non vacum advance distributors are notoriously a poor choice with stock carbs.
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staticattic
Yeah, I am using the Pertronix Compufire set-up, everything is mechanical.

After spraying STP in the carb and buying some STP fuel system cleaner, it really sounds like it is trying to idle. Right now it idles around 650 - 700 RPM's. If I turn the Volume screw 1/4 of a turn either in or out, it starts puttering and dies. When ever I brake, I keep my toes on the brake pedal and my heel on the gas. 

I still have no power. It is sluggish from a dead stop. Once I get going, it is fine, as long as the road is flat. It will struggle a little up hills unless I have enough room to build up a good head of steam. It must be me. Carbs and I just don't get along.   
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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beetlenut
Some thoughts... When you put the muffler back on, you increased the back pressure which may have helped it idle. As far as the adjustment screws, the seats in the carb body that the screws mate up with may be flattened out, and not giving you a smooth transition for adjustment. If it sat for a while,  there may be caked on fuel deposits around the metering holes in the carb.
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staticattic
It's a brand new carb, but I believe you are correct. If it ever stops raining long enough for me to open it up and really look at it, I am betting it is dirty and in need of a cleaning. I cleaned it up pretty good before installing it to wash off any excess machinist oil. However, the other day when I took the air cleaner off, there was an oily build up in the throat. The STP seemed to have gotten most of it off, but with it raining so much, I didn't really have the time to get my hands dirty and really get in it.

I have a hose that comes from the oil filler neck and connects to the bottom of the air cleaner. Does that hose suck air in or blow air out? I think the original idea for that hose was for it to blow out any excess oil vapor to be sucked down into the carb to get burned off. When I had the 1776 with dual carbs, that hose was open, poking out of the bottom of the engine bay. Is it possible that when I had the timing too far advanced, the engine got too hot causing more than normal amounts of oil vapor that got sucked into the carb and instead of burning off, the vapor just gummed up everything? That's kind of the direction I am leaning at this point. Hopefully over the three day weekend, the rain will let up enough for me to have the time to take the carb off and clean the hell out of it.  
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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staticattic
holy smokes!!! today I took off the pertronix billet mechanical distributor and replaced it with a vacuum advance distributor. On that distributor, I removed the points and condensor and replaced them with an Ignitor unit. Night and day. Before, I was having problems trying to keep the RPM's up when it was idling, now I had to struggle to get them down. Now it idles around 900 RPM's and it runs so much more smoothly. I guess it did need a vacuum advance instead of a mechanical advance. With the mechanical advance, I was pulling 21 mpg's. I am curious to see if the vacuum advance makes a difference.
Jeff
72 Super Beetle
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